Elements of fetishist subcultures were adopted in fashion since 60s. Leather , rubber, cruel shoes, tatoos, piercings, underwear as outwear (corsets, stockings etc. ) and many more became part of fashion shows.
This style is also called sexual chic. This style has been attacked by feminist critics for positioning women as sexual objects and critics. However, women adopting this style have also been pictured as dominant, strong and free by many in society.
One of the most famous shows in fetishist style, is John Galliano’s 2000 Autumn collection. It started with corseted bishop in Dior’s famous New Look silhouette and the rest of the collection was only more provoking and surprising.
Freud and fetishism were the main inspiration of the show, however the collection also has military, Marie Antoinette, clown motives as well.
The show had a lot of thematic fetishist looks, like a french maid, alligator skin dress with a reptilian head piece, Mexican day of dead motives inspired look with skulls, nun and a nurse.
The makeup of the many models was in clown theme creating very abstract and rich looks
Haute couture designers need to meet two targets in a fashion show: creativity – new ideas, a bit of shock and shake up and also ready to wear items. That’ why collections usually have both standing out statement looks and more practical and relatable ones.
I personally find this collection so exclusive, you want to observe each detail of each look to understand the idea behind it. Galliano has created fascinating connection between such controversial motives and made them work in harmony. I also find that no matter how carefully you study each look there is still a mystery, something unlocked and intriguing left.
Photo: Condé Nast Archive
No Comments