The Show
Chanel Métiers d’Art Extravaganza pre-fall show which took place in Rome was one of the most esthetically beautiful shows of Lagerfeld.
Lagerfeld shows have been known for creating movie like experience and having one of his shows taking place in an actual film studio – the Cinecittà Studios in Rome has made it only more cinematic. Lagerfeld essentially built a Parisian street in the studio, complete with a brasserie, a boulangerie, a cinema, and a metro station. There were also Roman statue props and an Italian restaurant to complete the scene.
Rome collection of Metiers D’art has got inspiration from the history of Karl Lagerfeld with Italy – his debut season designing for Tiziani started in Rome and Coco Chanel designs for the 50s Italian movies by Visconti and Pasolini. Karl Lagerfeld was often taking inspiration from Coco Chanel in his collections and continuing her stories.
The setup was incredible: a whole reconstruction of Paris in doom dark colors with the torch-lit avenues – an incredible backstage work by the lighting technicians. The streets appeared very grey and dark and torch lights were barely visible; the lighting has created the emphasis on the models and toned down the decorations.
The flow of the show was very dynamic, the models stepping up from the metro station and strutting through Paris streets. Special credit needs to be given to operator work, as the switch between the models and different parts of the “streets” was done really masterfully and allowed to see the models just about enough, but always leaving the feeling that you want to see more.
The Music – Couldn’t pass by the music choice of the show – the extraordinary French composer and pianist Chassol who has a unique methodology of creating music for films and concert halls.
The Collection
This was the sexiest collection created by Lagerfeld. We haven’t seen overly sexualized or kinky collections in any of his shows before. Still very delicate but this collection was very sexy and provocative.
Plenty of lace especially in combination with leather created very bold but still romantic looks.
Bridget Bardo inspired hair style and bold smokey eyes were totally 60s Italy inspired.
As we know the Metiers d’art collection are usually a fusion of Parisien and some other city fashion. The Paris Rome collection certainly had the Parisienne sexy – which is only a hint of eroticism. But if looking up close the kink was there in the belts decorated with metal rings in the center and the chockers.
The main idea behind the Metiers d’Art shows are the celebration of the craftsmanship – traditional and so valuable relationship between the Fashion house and the ateliers. As the show went along the embellishments thatsted to appear and showed the amazing intricate handwork of metallic embroideries, pleating, delicate faggoting on slip dresses.
The fabrics choice of this show needs a special attention. Despite having the traditional tweed suits, embellished dresses and suits and layers of Chanel pearls which are the staples of Lagerfeld collections, the rest of the collection was full of fresh ideas. Plenty of cashmere, silk crepe, chiffon, georgette, leather in combination with lace created the fusion of Parisian Elegance and Italian Glamour.
Shoes – Classic Chanel Black and White shoes, most of them embellished with pearls
Photos by: Gianni Pucci
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