The Show
The theme of Métiers d’Art 2019 – 2020 show was the iconic atelier of Madame Chanel, named after the street, it was located at: “Paris-31 rue Cambon”. This was the first Metiers d’Art collection of Virginie Viard as new Creative Director of Chanel and gave a glamps on the new vision of the fashion house.
Grand Palais has been transformed into the historic atelier and Coco Chanel’s apartment with mirrored hall, large staircase, and crystal chandeliers.
Virginie Viard has emphasized traditional Chanel motifs and paid a tribute to the history of the brand and its founder legendary Coco Chanel with this collection.
This show was also unique for representing solely classic Parisienne fashion, unlike most of the previous collections that were a fusion with other major fashion capitals, like Rome, Bombay, Hamburg and many more.
There was artistic emphasis on the collection that carried the legacy of Lagerfeld as well as the wearability and practicality that was the manifest of Coco Chanel. The rise of the daywear in haute couture is not only a bow towards Madame Chanel but also a growing trend since the pandemic.
As we saw more collections by Virginie Viard, it became clear that she is opting for simple, relatable clothes that feel timeless and not linked to a lot of trends.
The Collection
The show has started off with series of beautiful classic black and white looks, followed by occasional colorful items.
The collection was black and white dominant, with some looks in other neutrals like beige tones, and pops of various shades of pink : like hot pink, burgundies, and corals.
Despite being very classic and elegant, there was plenty of glitter in this collection: from pops of it on the pockets, belts and eyeshadows to full shiny suits teamed up with sparkly accessories.
Effortless hair and natural make up of the models were framing the looks in a very subtle way, s
My favorite item of the show was certainly the shoes, traditional heavy high boots on laces were replaced with elegant and lightweight two-color pumps with straps.
Draped bombers and coats added some weight to the collection, although it was overall very light and classic.
The idea of capes must have warmed up with Virginie, as we will see a few magician styles looks with large capes in Métiers d’Art collection that took place the year after (Metiers d’art 2020, 2021)
Another outfit formula that was adopted by Virginie Viard is the combination of oversized maxi skirts with classic tweed jackets that we will see in further collections of the new Creative Director.
The key codes of the brand have been used in abundance in this collection: camelias, gold birdcage purse, asymmetric large earrings, tweed suits and jackets, chain belts and so many more classic items that have been appearing from collection to collection for decades and became signatures of the brand.
Layers of cascading chains and pearls, metal cuff bracelets decorated the classic and clean lines of the collection and elevated the looks and made the collection majestic and luxurious.
Craftsmanship
Metiers d’Art collections are well known to be created to appreciate the craftsmanship of the ateliers that work with Chanel and celebrate unique embroidery, shoe making, delicate flower, feather and lace works’ traditions.
Traditionally, the most highly crafted pieces of the collection are shown at the end of the show to demonstrate the skills of the craftsmen. Delicate lace and flower embroidered dresses and jump suits felt light and almost transparent in this show.
Photos by : Daniele Oberrauch
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