Dior 1998 – Spring Summer Ready-to-Wear Collection

John Galliano

John Galliano was born on November 28, 1960 in Gibraltar in a family of a plumber and a housewife. His passion for fashion came to him from his mother, who loved to dress up both herself and her children.

When the family moved to London, Galliano entered Central Saint Martin’s College of Art and Design.
Maestro’s genius manifested itself from the outset of his career. The show of his graduation collection was a triumph – the day after the show, a clothing line, inspired by the French grotesque, was displayed on the windows of the Browns department store and that was just a start – the first buyer was the singer Diana Ross – she bought a vest from the new-born genius of the fashion industry.

During his studies, Galliano worked at the National Theater – this position greatly influenced his future collections, which often contain elements of national and theatrical costumes. The designer has repeatedly said that in his youth he visited many nightclubs and his scandalous style was formed by partygoers’ stylish images. These diverse sources of inspiration explain the deeply contrasting motives that appear in Galliano’s connection.

In the early 90s, John Galliano was interested in such iconic fashion houses as Balenciaga and Givenchy, but eventually businessman Bernard Arnault hired him to refresh the aesthetics of Dior, which by that time had acquired an unflattering prefix – “conservative” in the fashion world.

Replacing Italian designer Gianfranco Ferre, John Galliano was appointed creative director of Christian Dior in 1996. He held the reins until 2011, and during his tenure received critical acclaim for his haute couture and ready-to-wear collections. Galliano was one of the most shocking and brilliant designers of our time. He was in fact, the second remarkable genius of this house, after Christian Dior, the founder of the legendary fashion house.

Galliano began to release 12 collections annually, and perhaps the most important moment of fashion shows was considered the designer’s exit.  Witnesses of shows often said that during the performances there was complete silence in the halls – so the audience was attracted by what was happening. In the fashion world, Galliano is called the “Dior resuscitator”, and they say that there is only what Galliano does, and everything else is somewhere far away.

In 2013, the fashion house fired the designer with a scandal for intolerant and offensive statements in a drunken state.

1998 Spring Ready To Wear Collection – One of the first fashion shows of John Galliano with Dior.

From the first seconds, the show felt like stepped right out of Great Gatsby film. Galliano restored classic Dior looks and gave them a little historic touch of the beginning of XX century.

The rebellious spirit of 20s flapper fashion immediately infused the runway with a sense of nostalgia.

Known for his theatrical designs and dramatic showcases, the British designer of French fashion house staged a spectacular fashion show for Dior. This was one of his first shows for Dior and as expected, a great debut.

The show was in the best traditions of Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture:  a high-drama affair filled with theatrical presentations, elaborate sets, extravagant makeup, and notably, remarkable designs combined with pristine craftsmanship.

Models graced through the runway, pausing beside an exquisite antique grand piano, striking beautiful poses, showcasing the looks from different angles.

The collection exuded an ultra-feminine allure, combining sexy attributes such as chokers, high slits, silks, laces, stilettos, and ultra-mini dresses. The traditional cinched waist shapes, reminiscent of Dior’s iconic “New Look,” were elaborated in prolonged jackets, adding a touch of classic Dior, to the otherwise contemporary designs. Galliano definitely understood the assignment, He shook the conservative reputation of the brand to the core from the very start.

The statement of the collection, was the use of multi-layered jewellery, that resembled intricate pieces of wearable art.

What made this show truly stand out was its ability to convey a sense of sexuality without coming across as vulgar. Feather and floral head accessories, net gloves, and stockings accentuated the provocative low open backs, while trim furs added a layer of opulence. The models’ big, sexy updos, added a touch of grandiosity to the overall presentation. Despite having so many statement accessories and fabrics in one look, there was a harmony of textures and shapes.

Photos by: Guy Marineau